It is 1,700 kilometers from Chengdu to Suoxian County, and the terrain in many sections is relatively steep. We walked for two days and two nights before finally reaching Yala Town, where the Suoxian County Government is located.
Basang lives in a relatively remote area, 70 or 80 kilometers away from Yala Town. However, he rushed to Yala Town the same day he finished the phone call with Sea Beard and has been waiting for us in the town for two full days.
Yala Town is very small, with only a few short streets. The residents in the town all wear distinctive Tibetan costumes. Perhaps because it is located on an important transportation thoroughfare, there should be a lot of tourists passing through here to Lhasa every year. For When we arrived, the locals didn't show much curiosity.
We found a Sichuan restaurant in the center of the town. This Sichuan restaurant should be mainly aimed at foreign tourists, because at this time, the number of people traveling to Tibet has become increasingly rare. We basically didn’t see a few people traveling to Tibetan areas along the way. There were cars traveling in the same direction. So even though it was already lunch time, the store seemed deserted, with almost no customers.
Seeing a group of us walking into the store, the proprietress of the store immediately came to greet us warmly and asked us to sit down. The proprietress is from Aba, Sichuan, and she speaks authentic Trump, which makes people feel like "hearing the local accent in a different place" The feeling is more cordial.
We casually ordered a few homemade dishes, and the shop owner and his wife went to work in the kitchen. There was only a seven or eight-year-old girl left in the shop, lying on the counter, doing her homework, and peeking in from time to time. Let's take a look.
Since it was not the peak tourist season, the business in the store was too deserted. In order to save costs, the store owner laid off all the store employees. The couple are now the boss, waiter, and chef.
While waiting for the food to be served, Haibeard called Basang, but five minutes later, a tall, dark-skinned, stern-faced middle-aged man wearing Tibetan clothing and a black Tibetan felt hat appeared. Went into the store.
When Hai Beard saw the Tibetan man, he immediately stood up and greeted him. The two of them didn't say anything. They gave each other a warm hug first. After exchanging a few words, Hai Beard brought the Tibetan man to us and introduced him: " This is my comrade-in-arms Basang."
Basang took off his hat, held it in front of his chest, smiled at us, bowed, and said: "Tashi Delek."
Before coming, we all did some homework and knew that "Tashi Delek" means "Hello" in Tibetan. We all quickly stood up and responded: "Tashi Delek."
We warmly invited Basang to sit down and started talking with him.
Basang told us that he now has a large ranch on the outskirts of Yala Town. He raises hundreds of yaks and thousands of goats, with an annual net income of four to five million yuan. Now his ranch is hiring He hired four or five workers to help take care of it, so he basically didn’t have to worry about it, so when he had nothing to do, he would drive around. Over the years, he has traveled almost all over northern Tibet, even in some inaccessible alpine mountainous areas, leaving behind left his footprints.
After listening to what Basang said, Professor Dong asked: "I wonder if Brother Basang has ever been to Daga Doma Village?"
When he heard about Daga Doma Village, Basang immediately nodded and replied: "Of course I have been there! I have an old friend who lives there. A few years ago, a heavy snowstorm caused one of his legs to freeze and become lame. Now he is living It’s more difficult, but I visit him every year.”
"Then you must know that there is a Bon temple near Daga Doma Village?" Professor Dong continued to ask.
"Bon temple? What's its name?" Basang asked.
Professor Dong shook his head and said: "I went there more than ten years ago. Now I don't remember the name of the temple. I only remember that not far from the temple, there was a plateau lake with red water."
Basang immediately understood: "Chishui Lake! Are you talking about the Doma Temple on Daga Doma Mountain?"
Professor Dong thought for a moment and slapped his thigh: "Yes! Yes! It's called Doma Temple! So, Brother Basang, do you know that place?"
Basang said: "Of course I know. My old man believes in Bon religion and goes to Doma Temple to worship every year. I even accompanied him there twice." At this point, he changed the topic and asked: "You guys
When I go to Nagqu for the first time, do I want to go to Doma Temple?"
Professor Dong nodded.
"The Doma Temple is located in a remote area and is not a big temple. Why do you go all the way there to do it?" Basang asked doubtfully.
Professor Dong smiled and said: "I went to visit an old friend. He is the master of Doma Temple."
"Is it Master Dolma?" Basang blurted out a name.
Professor Dong had a surprised expression on his face: "How do brothers Basang know?"
Pasang chuckled and said: "There is only one guru in Doma Temple, and that is Guru Dolma. Who else could it be if he wasn't him?"
Professor Dong smiled and said: "It seems that Brother Basang is quite familiar with Doma Temple. On the way here, I was still worried that I would not be able to find the way to Doma Temple. Now that Brother Basang is my guide, I can
I feel relieved.”
Basang immediately patted his chest and said, "I'm not bragging. As long as you name the place in northern Tibet, I can take you there!"
While we were chatting, the owner of the shop came up with hot food. In total, we haven't had hot food or hot food for more than ten hours. Now that I smell the delicious food, I feel hungry.
I yelled, and everyone else was the same as me. They didn't care about being polite, so they grabbed their chopsticks and started eating.
To be honest, the food in this restaurant is not very good, not like authentic Sichuan cuisine, but compared to the cold water instant noodles we ate along the way, it is simply a delicacy. The few of us will soon eat it.
The food on the table was wiped out in one go.
After filling our stomachs and resting for a while, we were ready to set off.
Originally, Seabeard wanted Basang to ride in his car, but Basang insisted on driving his own car. What we didn't expect was that he also drove a Jeep Wrangler, and like Seabeard, he also drove a Jeep Wrangler.
The rear seats were removed. Seabeard explained that this was not a coincidence. The main reason was that when they were in the army, the car they drove was a Jeep, so they chose the same car in such a tacit understanding, and they were also familiar with the car.
The same modifications were made.
In this way, four of our vehicles formed a small convoy, and under the leadership of Basan, we headed west along National Highway 317.
After driving for about an hour, Basang told us through the intercom that the altitude where we are now is close to 5,000 meters. Mainland people who come to high-altitude areas for the first time are often prone to altitude sickness, so we should all be careful.
One point, if you feel any physical discomfort, you must tell others in time and don't hold on.
In fact, in order to prevent altitude sickness, we had already made corresponding preparations before coming to Tibet and took Rhodiola rosea capsules for many days in a row.
Rhodiola rosea is a medicinal plant that grows in alpine pollution-free zones at an altitude of 1800-2500 meters. Because it has grown for a long time in a harsh environment of anoxia, low temperature, strong ultraviolet rays, and a large temperature difference between day and night, it has strong vitality and
Special adaptability. This also gives it special medicinal value. It can replenish qi and clear the lungs, nourish the mind and nourish the heart. It has special effects in preventing altitude sickness, so it is basically a must-have when entering Tibet.
one of the drugs.
However, as a traditional Chinese medicine, Rhodiola rosea has a slow onset of action, so it generally needs to be taken in advance. In total, we have been taking Rhodiola rosea capsules for almost seven or eight days in a row. I originally thought that nothing would happen to us.
Altitude sickness, but after continuing to move forward for about half an hour, I clearly felt a little unwell, and Dong Xiaodan's reaction was even more obvious. She frowned, her expression was painful, her face and lips were a little purple, and
Breathing also became rapid.
I quickly parked the car on the side of the road and called other people through the intercom. Everyone quickly stopped the car. Basang walked over, took a look, and immediately said: "It's mild altitude sickness. Give her some suction."
Just some oxygen." Haibeard quickly brought a portable oxygen bottle. I took the oxygen bottle from his hand and quickly helped Dong Xiaodan put on the oxygen mask.
Except for Basang and Haibeard, everyone else had slight reactions, so Wen Qingshan suggested taking a rest for a while.
Along the way, I was just driving and feeling a little unwell, so I didn't pay much attention to the scenery on both sides of the road. Now that I stopped, I realized that the scenery on this plateau is really unparalleledly beautiful.
There are clear blue skies, white clouds, endless plateau meadows, and in the distance, you can even see a medium-sized plateau lake. The lake water reflects the color of the sky, like a sapphire inlaid on the earth.
Both Bianjian and I were attracted by the beautiful scenery in front of us.
But Wen Qingshan was not in the mood to appreciate the scenery in front of him. He walked up to Basang and asked him: "Brother Basang, how far are we from Daga Doma Village now?"
Basang raised his head, looked around, pointed his hand forward, and said: "Cross the mountain in front, and then continue driving along National Highway 317 for half an hour. You will see a bifurcated road, that
The branch road is the country road leading to Daga Doma Village, which is about forty or fifty kilometers long, but that road is not easy to walk. Even if everything goes well, it will probably take more than two hours to walk."
Looking in the direction that Basang pointed, at the end of the winding road, there is a mountain peak that slightly protrudes from the ground. It does not seem to be that far away, but my experience in the past two days tells me that in this inaccessible place,
In the plateau areas, it is a very common phenomenon to "cry when you see the top of a mountain". For such a stretch of road, some of it is dozens of kilometers long. Since it is not suitable to drive too fast in plateau areas, it may take about an hour.